ラベル chicken の投稿を表示しています。 すべての投稿を表示
ラベル chicken の投稿を表示しています。 すべての投稿を表示

2010年11月22日月曜日

Autumn #15: Thanksgiving - Boiled, not Baked / 秋#15:アメリカの伝統、日本の材料

Thanksgiving! The gloriously secular celebration of eating! However suspicious its originating mythology may be, I have to admit that I can't suppress my enthusiasm for collective gluttony. And what else is Thanksgiving?
アメリカの感謝際!食いしん坊のとてもとても愛された感謝祭!

Last year, it was two ducks in place of a turkey. This year, lacking both turkeys and ovens, I decided that I'd take the opportunity to give thanks for the bounty of the shitamachi -- the "low city" -- in which I reside.
今年伝統的な七面鳥もオーベンもないチェルは下町の豊かさに感謝します!

Tokyo's shitamachi comprises the eastern neighborhoods of Ueno, Asakusa, Yanaka, and Tabata. It is here, according to Donald Richie, that "still retains what little is left of the feel of old Edo -- distinctly plebian, also fun-loving, less inhibited than those remains of areas where the military aristocracy, the shogunate, observed its rules of decorum." The most significant manifestation of this "fun-loving" shitamachi character is the street food. There are breaded and fried glories to be taken in hand, sweet bean paste of every imaginable configuration, and even -- if you are lucky -- the occasional "scotch egg": a hard-boiled egg ensconced in minced meat and fried. All this and more.
下町の魅力はいろいろですが、注目に値するのはその食い物。ミンチコロッケ、まんじゅうの勢ぞろい、たまにスコッチエグでも(揚げたったミンチに囲まれた卵!)。それに感謝します。


So I got a bone from a local butcher shop to start a mellow soup base for our hotpot Thanksgiving party of nine hungry people.
それで、近所の肉屋さんで買った豚の骨を鍋の汁に。


Broken open, of course, so the marrow can seep out.
骨髄が流れるために折った骨。

I blanched the bone, and put it in a pot to simmer with an apple and star anise.
骨をリンゴとスターアニスに煮た。




I let it go for eight hours or so, adding bits of vegetables along the way.
このままで8時間ぐらい。少しずつ野菜もいれた。

For example, I added some daikon -- a kind of radish, the name of which translates literally as "large root."
例えば、大根を。



This particular "big root" was about the size of my arm.
この大根は文字通り大きくて、腕の大きさぐらい。


The daikon is pretty benign as radishes go.
可愛いね。
So once the bones had simmered and simmered and simmered, I added a touch of soy sauce and sugar, and assembled the shitamachi bounty we'd use for our tableside hotpot thanksgiving feast.
骨が煮て煮て、その間下町の恵みを集まった。

Napa cabbage. Of dinosauric proportions.
白菜の爆弾.


Tentacles peeking out from a fishcake casing. This is getting very Jurassic.
ゲソにハロー。
To distract my arriving guests, I had prepared some crudites (And yes: I still like to pronounce them to rhyme with "Luddites." Croooo-deee-teh, la deee da).
お客さんがだんだん来るので少しだけ前菜も準備した。


Chili-miso and yuzukoshô dipping sauces... just to tide us over until...
野菜とチリみそソース、柚子こしょうマヨ。それで我慢できるかな。。。


Everybody in the pot!
ジャーン!

Alongside this hotpot, we also simmered a pot of this chicken broth, to which I had added ginger.
もう一つの鍋にこのチキンスープを使った。


Holy hotpot! Nothing secular about my feelings toward this food. Hotpot as a communal meal does have something of a primal urgency. We were stripped down to our natural state: just a tribe collecting around the fire, literally grunting into our food. Never mind that the fire was fueled by propane, or that our appetites were whetted not through vigorous cooperative hunting, but through the consumption of cans and cans of beer and malt liquor.
無宗教の感謝際だが、鍋に参った。



Plucking our dinner from the primordial ooze.
みんなが火に集まって、昔の人間のように。



First, a little from pork-bone pot.
まずは豚骨鍋から。。。


Then a little from chicken hotpot...
それでチキンも味見を。。。


And when the nine hungry pilgrims feared that they were at the end...
最後の最後の恐れがあっても。。。


Udon noodles descended into the broth like manna.
うどん。と。。。





For the pork-bone pot, rice and eggs soaked up the last of the broth real nice.
豚骨の鍋にご飯と卵を。

Just one last little detail really set this rite right...
この下町のごちそうさえあれは、他にいることないでしょうね。


Fried garlic shards. Happy thanksgiving!
一つだけが必要:揚げたニンニク。ごちそうさま!

2010年11月21日日曜日

Autumn #14: In the Soup / 秋#14:I love ゆ

Winter is creeping up on us here. The days are shorter, skin is drier, feets are colder, moods are heavier.
冬が私にこっそり忍び寄っているじゃん。日暮れがだんだん早くなって、肌がだんだんかさかさに、足下はだんだん冷えて、心がだんだん重ーくて。

Time for soup.
スープの季節だ。

I've been reluctant to attempt any ambitious broths here, since I can literally walk out the front door and eat a cheap bowl of noodles bathing in a well loved soup of bones and other various choice tidbits that has been stewed for days. The details of such potions can be found here, at my favorite ramen blog. But since I'm celebrating Thanksgiving with nabe -- Japanese hotpot -- I thought I'd try my hand at loving up some soup.
日本は世界中愛されたラーメンの天国なので、別に自分が時間をかけて、骨から汁を作る必要がないね。でも今年の感謝際は鍋で祝おうつもりで、ゆっくりでスープをやってみようと思った。


My idea was to pair chicken with yuzu, to flatten any ambitious cold viruses. Yuzu is a Japanese citrus fruit. It's kind of the ugly cousin to the beloved mikan -- mandarin orange. Its juice is similar to that of the grapefruit, but it is certainly unfriendly to the casual curious eater.
チッキンスープに柚子を使おうと思って、風邪を防ぐために。


As you can see, it is humorlessly jammed full of seeds.
みかんより醜い柚子を開けても中身も種いっぱいで、まるでみかんのへんてこないとこと考えちゃう。でも柚子にでも魅力あるね。

I'd also add some fragrant mitsuba, which is not dissimilar to parsley.
それに三つ葉を。






Mitsuba is also a little unfriendly. Be sure to at least blanch it, or it pricks the mouth.
三つ葉も熱湯に通さないと友好的でないね。

A wonderful pot of soup requires a certain kind of commitment. It's not a particularly high maintenance relationship, but it does require a long period of tending to, even if with just a bit of one's energies. It's more like a steady, healthfully rooted relationship, that still needs someone to skim the goop off of the top and keep the fire lit.
すばらしいスープを作ることに傾倒しなければなりません。あまり多くを要求する相手じゃないけど、スープはいい付き合いのように根気がいる。


Hours of tending the hearth yielded a light and tasty broth, brightened by yuzu.
何時間が経ってからこの軽くて柚子で明るくしたスープ。

Perhaps more gratifying still was the stewed chicken meat I extracted from the soup, sliced up and served over rice with mitsuba and chili sauce.
もう一つの楽しみはその煮た鶏肉!それを切って、ご飯に載せた。

  

 Also have to eat your vegetables...
野菜も食べなきゃね。。。 


Napa cabbage in sesame vinegarette...
白菜のサラダ。。。

And grilled asparagus.
と焼きアスパラ。


They seem happy to have each other.
幸せ。

Oh... and those mysterious bits on the rice: Those are the chicken skins I grilled on top of the asparagus.
それでもう一つご飯に載せたものがあるね。それはアスパラと一緒に焼いた鳥皮。


I have to fatten up for winter, you know.
冬の覚悟で太らなきゃ。

ごちそうさま!